Reports - Caucasus
Chernysh was a little dejected and, most likely, felt that I was leaving. With someone had time to measure his teeth, but behaved modestly. I drew attention to a woman who baked delicious chichina, and told the story of the dog that someone was aware of ... Left the black collar, hugged in goodbye, and holding back a tear, went into the minibus. I understood that such a dog can be searched all my life and not found, but I must leave it and, probably, a piece of my heart. And I will never forget this story. Sincerely I hope that the baby is lucky with the new good owner.
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I noticed cats and cattle, and decided to bypass it, so as not to bother, but a little later, when I admired and photographed, I heard a hail. It was a shepherd. He came to me, and I moved forward. It is a bit "swollen" from my dogs, which rushed and barked it. But when they saw that we were friendly, they relaxed. Aznavour called to his house and offered to stay overnight in the koshar. At first I refused, realizing that he had his own kennel, but then decided to tie my dogs in a secluded place among the birches and rhododendrons. The naive were given to this procedure, the lines were useful. I was a little sorry for the dogs, although I understood that they would be all right. They did not even bark when we left. Next, I would like to talk about the specifics of the shepherds' work and way of life, but I'm afraid it will take a lot of attention.
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The sun was frying, but the dog, throwing out the tongue, did not lag behind. Doing halts in the shade. I was amazed at the animal, starting to think about where this hero would go next day. Before the final take-off on the Kyzyl-Aush pass, near the kosh, four shepherd dogs, similar to Caucasians, with cropped ears, flew at us. It was really a war. If I had not dealt with dogs in my life and did not watch the program of Caesar Milan, I would have been eaten along with my "Chernysh". The owner, coming out of the kosh, lazily watched it from afar. Trekking sticks and a terrible bass shout gave us to gradually move away. Once these hulks crushed under him Chernysh, he also bravely defended himself. I again rushed at them, and the dogs retreated a little.
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It was a bit chilly to sleep, even though they were hiding in a snow fortress. At night there were sharp gusts of wind, and in the morning it began to snow. We got up at 8:30, and on the way to the brook for the water I realized that the day was not easy. The landscape of the chain of mountains was hidden by a snowstorm, and those tracks that led right to the passes were swept clean. We ate breakfast, and decided that we should still go. We prepared for the assault, the ski goggles and the hood came in handy.
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Snow pleased with its moderate amount, and it was easy to go. In addition to this, excellent sunny weather and an appropriate mood for all participants of the trek. Soon it became clear that there was no avalanche hazard. The snow lay well sealed, and I descended fairly madly from one of the most beautiful passes - Yumekorra (Gorges of the Dead).
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Before the pass we arrived quickly enough, discovering a new fascinating view and a new valley. Part of the group dropped their backpacks and made a radial exit to the neighboring peak, and a part remained to wait, periodically experiencing the coolness of walking along the ridge of the wind. By this time, the clouds began to maneuver vigorously, periodically hiding a rocky ridge from us and pushing us to think about a further route.
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4 km of a fairytale road among the firs, washed on both sides by the lake Valdai. Struck by the beauty of the monastery, I wonder why I did not meet churches or chapels along the road, except for the ruined church near the village of Dinner. There are hundreds of them in the Carpathians.
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The day began perfectly, the sun was shining and it was warm and joyful. There were no clear plans for the next two days, although two possible options were beginning to be drawn, or to go to the Moonlit glade and there still a day to stand, or climb the neighboring range of Abishira-Akhuba. But, one way or another, we needed to return to Arkhyz and replenish the stores of the grocery bag, which by this time was completely emaciated.
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And again, behind the back was another valley, which became so familiar for yesterday. Covered by sprawling trees, we reached the border of the forest, from where the Ozerny pass was visible on the palm of your hand. There was a relatively small leap and the "golden key" should be in our pocket-there must be a connection on the pass. For more than three days, we have been cut off from civilization, and I really wanted to send the news home that we are all well and we are healthy.
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Behind the pass was a view of the neighboring valley, into which we were going to descend after a well-deserved rest. The new valley beckoned us as a new toy attracts a child, briefly eclipsing your favorite old toys. In addition, in the distance we could see our next pass - Ozerny, which was planned for tomorrow. But the instantly obsolete species behind our backs had one indisputable trump: Elbrus, which, even during the ascent to the pass, appeared on the horizon. The highest peak of the Caucasus was surrounded by a halo of clouds and mountain peaks, riveting our already experienced views.
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And now we again climb the slope, in the direction of the next pass. Step by step, we collect the coveted meters and at the bottom opens another stunning view. On the head gradually begins to drip a little rain and very soon we are gently enveloped by a veil of clouds that have come running. Then it was possible to shoot new series "Hedgehog in the fog", visibility dropped to 10 meters, and from the fog alone lonely trees, stones and bushes floated out. At some point our seldom-sounding voices began to complement the sounds of the bells, creating a mysterious and mystical background for the cloud scenery.
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And then came the long-awaited moment when the backpack pleasantly presses on the sides and shoulders, and under the feet the first meters of the road begin to flash. It is completely unclear what awaits us ahead, what kind of meetings and acquaintances fate has prepared for us, and what kind of weather is planned by the heavenly chancellery for the next seven days of the campaign. But around was the Caucasus, the highest (geographically for sure) and, perhaps, the most beautiful mountain range of continental Europe, which could not but rejoice.
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The dream of many tourists, and not only :) Finally, and we waited July 31. Every evening, going to bed, we thought, wondered how would it be? But all that we saw, passed - impressed! I can not compare "this greatness" with anything. Of course, the Carpathians are also beautiful, but THIS!
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